A long-term equilibrium beach planform model for coastal work design
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2012-10-25Derechos
Atribución 3.0 España
Publicado en
Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 2012,33, Proceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Santander, Spain, 2012
Publisher
Coastal Engineering Research Council
Palabras clave
Static equilibrium beach planform
Height gradient
Oblique incidence
Longshore sediment transport
Porous concrete
Breaking wave
Abstract:
Traditional models usually allow fitting the equilibrium beach planform of crenulated beaches knowing wave climate
characteristics at a control point. However, sometimes there are shoals or bars in the surf zone which affect surf zone
dynamics and longshore sediment distribution, and it is difficult to take into account these elements using those
traditional models. A long-term equilibrium beach planform model is proposed here based on sediment transport
equations. This model takes into account the sediment transport due to oblique wave incidence and that due to wave
height gradient. Two case studies have been studied: a simple pocket beach and a beach which is sheltered by a
sandstone bar. Results show the model fits reasonably well the equilibrium beach planform to the shorelines of those
beaches. This model is more suitable than traditional models when there are elements affecting surf zone dynamics.
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